Water cream is a cosmetic cream product that can emulsify cream to water by rubbing it on the skin. there are usually a variety of products such as water cream protection, BB water cream,water gel dressing, and water sunscreen.
1. The Principle of Water Cream
As an water in oil emulsion cream system, the internal phase of the water cream is water, and the addition proportion is generally between 80% and 90%, and the external phase is oil, and the addition proportion is generally within 10%, and the addition amount of emulsifying agent is generally between 0.5% and 3%. It needs to adjust the proportion of water and oil in accordance with different emulsifying agent. Generally, the weaker the emulsifying ability of emulsifying agent, the greater the amount of water and oil to be added. Since the water cream is a critically unstable system, its cream can be emulsified by rubbing on the skin
2. The Stability of Water Cream
Emulsification may occur during transportation, filling, and emulsifying with an emulsifying mixer, so the stability should not be drastically reduced for the purpose of watering. In general, after the water cream is developed, a centrifugation stability test is required, with a centrifugation time of 30 minutes at 3000r/min.
Cold resistance test: The stability tests at -15 degrees/room temperature and -25 degrees/room temperature, three cycles at 24 degrees/hour and at -15 degrees a month. in the cold resistance test should not appear broken milk, stratification, discoloration, taste. During the cold resistance test, there should not appear emulsification, delamination, discoloration or taste change.
Heat resistance test: The stability tests for heat resistance at 40 ° C/room temperature, three cycles at 24 ° C/hour and the stability at 40 ° C/ a month. There should be no emulsification, delamination, discoloration or taste change in heat resistance test.
The test of water by rubbing skin: under normal circumstances, we weigh about 1g of material on the back of the hand, and smear for about a minute or ten times to observe the effect of water.
3.Formula of Water Cream
Water phase: Generally speaking, the proportion of water phase is between 80% and 90%, and different moisturizers need to be added to enhance the stability at low temperature, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butanediol, PEG400, sorbitol, etc. And the effect of adding water phase alone is poor, and it needs to be added with other moisturizers and the total amount of the addition should be between 15% and 30%. If its purpose is to reduce the freezing point, it can also add appropriate electrolytes at the same time, such as sodium chloride and other additives, such as preservatives, chelating agent, etc.. On the whole, the higher the water phase content is, the better the effluent effect is.
Emulsifying agent: generally, the amount of emulsifying agent added is between 0.5-3%. The specific amount of its additives needs to be adjusted according to different emulsifying agents, such as the amount of emulsifying agent of EVonik EM90 and EM180 is generally between 0.5-0.9%, that of BC2362 silicon bomb emulsifying agent (Polydimethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 crosslinked polymer) is generally around 3%, that of Shin-Yue KSG-210 is generally around 3%. On the whole, the higher the amount of emulsifying agent, the better the stability, the worse the water ability. Because each kind of emulsifying agent has different emulsifying ability for different grease, emulsifying agent should be selected to match with the corresponding grease as far as possible.
Formula of Water Cream
Phase | Name of Raw Material | Proportion of Addition | Funtion |
A | D5 | 4 | Softener |
2EHP | 4.5 | Softener | |
EM90 | 0.8 | Emulsifying Agent | |
B | Water | T100 | Solvent |
Glycerin | 5 | Anti-freezing Agent | |
Propylene Glycol | 5 | Anti-freezing Agent | |
Butanediol | 8 | Anti-freezing Agent | |
NaCl | 1 | Anti-freezing Agent | |
Preservatives | Appropriate | Preservatives |
5.The Process of Water Cream
Process 1: with the method of no homogenization, it is no need to homogenization by emulsifying mixer, or by purchasing general stainless steel mixing tank. This method is suitable for systems with low stability and in-homogeneity. Specific operation: dissolve the water phase, dissolve the oil phase, and then stir the oil phase. In the process of stirring, the water phase is added to the oil phase, and the stirring speed can be gradually accelerated with the addition of the water phase.
Process 2: The method of partial homogenization. This process is suitable for a more stable system. Specific operation: stirring oil phase by emulsifying mixer, next adding 10% of the water phase into the oil phase in the slow stirring process, then starting the homogenization by emulsifying mixer, after that, the remaining 90% of the water phase should be added into the main tank of the emulsifying mixer in the process of stirring. After adding, it began to homogenize slowly and homogenize for a short time.
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